摘要
Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations, Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations, The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations.
Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations, Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations, The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations.
基金
The project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.59979002 and No 59839330)
