华南沿岸浅水台风风浪频谱的初步探讨

A PRIMARY STUDY ON SHALLOW TYPHOON-WAVE SPECTRUM ALONG COAST OF SOUTH CHINA

在深水海浪向近岸浅水区传播的过程中，由于变浅作用，海浪的频谱发生了相应的变化。文章以华南沿岸实测浅水台风风浪资料为基础，通过分析比较深水风浪频谱与实测台风风浪频谱的不同，并对实测资料进行统计处理，得出适用于华南沿岸浅水台风风浪的频谱。文章还将该频谱与已有的两种深水风浪频谱和Basinski－Massel浅水风浪频谱进行了比较。

In the course of deep-water wave propagating towards coastal shallow waterarea, its spectrum changes because of warer depth decreasing. Based on the observedshallow typhoon wave data along the coast of South China, a typhoon wave spectrumsuitable for coastal sea area of South China is obtained by comparing deep-waterwind wave spectrum to observed ocean wave spectrum, and by statistically disposingthe observed data. The obtained spectrum has also be compared with the twodeep-water wind wave spectrums separately developed by Wen Shengchang andMitsuyasu, and with the shallow water wind wave spectrum by Basinski-Massel.