天丝/PBT交织弹力面料染整工艺

Wet processing of Tencel/PBT mixture

天丝/PBT交织双色弹力面料染整加工主要包括烧毛、退浆、定形、碱处理、原纤化、酶处理、溢流染色和后整理等工序。试验表明,前处理采用酶退浆工艺可减少纤维损伤;定形工艺条件为170℃×30 s,以稳定纬向尺寸;碱用量70～80 g/L,浸碱时间40～45 min,可提高天丝得色率,减少后道工序产生擦伤等疵病;采用纤维素酶进行抛光处理;采用分散/活性浸染工艺,分散染料染色温度控制在110℃;后整理选用柔软整理剂、功能性整理剂,以改善织物手感,获得特殊的功能性。

The dyeing and finishing process of Tencel/PBT elastic fabric includes singeing, desizing, setting, alkali treatment, fi- brillating, enzyme treatment, overflow dyeing and finishing. Optimum process conditions are determined as follows： desizing with enzyme; heat setting at 170 ℃ for 30 s to stablize the weft dimension; alkali treatment with 70 - 80 g/L sodium hydroxide for 40-50 min; polishing treatment with cellulase; exhaust dyeing with disperse dyes at 110℃ and reactive dyes; finishing with the selected softening agent or functional finishing agents to obtain soft handle and special functions.