摘要
High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of mu(= h/lambda, depth to deep-water wave length ratio) and epsilon(= a/h, wave amplitude to depth ratio) for velocity potential, particle velocity vector, pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations for surface elevation eta and horizontal velocity vector (U) over right arrow at any given level in water are given. Then, the exact explicit expressions to the fourth order of mu are derived. Finally, the linear solutions of eta, (U) over right arrow, C (phase-celerity) and C-g (group velocity) for a constant water depth are obtained. Compared with the Airy theory, excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth. The present high-order models are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth (from shallow to deep) and bottom slope (from mild to steep).
High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of mu(= h/lambda, depth to deep-water wave length ratio) and epsilon(= a/h, wave amplitude to depth ratio) for velocity potential, particle velocity vector, pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations for surface elevation eta and horizontal velocity vector (U) over right arrow at any given level in water are given. Then, the exact explicit expressions to the fourth order of mu are derived. Finally, the linear solutions of eta, (U) over right arrow, C (phase-celerity) and C-g (group velocity) for a constant water depth are obtained. Compared with the Airy theory, excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth. The present high-order models are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth (from shallow to deep) and bottom slope (from mild to steep).
