汕头近岸区的台风波浪(一)实测记录的分析

THE TYPHOON WAVE ON SHANTOU COASTAL AREAS (Part 1.The Analysis of Field observation Records)

作者选择了汕头近岸区某测点的台风（包括热带风暴和强热带风暴，下同）波浪从下列三个方面进行分析研究：（一）实测记录的分析；（二）后报台风波浪及其基本特征；（三）各种重现期台风波浪要素的确定。力图为该近岸区海岸工程设计中必须考虑的水动力参数提供依据。本文，着重分析了实测台风波浪能量的分布，给出台风过程波浪能量随频率和方向的变化；波浪能量的集中程度以及台风过程测点出现波高最大值时波浪能量随频率和方向的分布等。从实测资料的分析揭示台风波浪能量的结构。

Typhoon waves (including tropical storm waves and severe tropical storm waves) at certain observation points in shantou coastal areas have been selected by the authors to study the following 3 aspects: (1)analysis of in situ observed records; (2)hindcasting of typhoon waves and their basic characteristics; and (3) determining each typhoon wave element in various recurrence periods. Trying to provide bases for hydrodynamic factors which are necessary in the design of coastal engineering in these areas, this article emphasizes the analysis of the wave energy distribution of the observed typhoon waves, outlines the energy concentration degree of wave and the distribution of the energy along with frequency and direction at the moment of maximum wave height during typhoon processes, and reveals the typhoon wave energy structure based on the analysis of the in situ observed data.