缝纫机针对羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能的影响

Influence of sewing needle on fiber projecting-out resistance of winter woolen garment

羊毛防寒服在服用过程中会出现不同程度的钻毛现象,通过针眼的钻毛量比较明显,它降低了羊毛防寒服的美观性和服用性能。参照GB/T 12705—2009《织物防钻绒性实验方法》中规定的织物防钻绒性实验方法,并根据实际情况对实验参数进行调整,模拟羊毛防寒服在穿着过程中受到的各种挤压、揉搓、碰撞等作用力,计数从织物和针眼钻出的羊毛根数,分析在不同织物密度和缝纫机针下的钻毛量及其规律。结果表明,较小型号圆头机针可明显降低羊毛纤维的钻出量,这一技术手段可用于羊毛防寒服的生产实践,并有效地提升羊毛防寒服的防钻毛性能。

Fiber projecting-out phenomena often occur on the surface of winter woolen garments during wearing, which may be mainly attributed to sewing needles. These phenomena negatively affect the aesthetics and wearability of the garments. According to ＂Fabric Test Method for Fiber Projecting-out Resistance of Feather and Down＂ （GB/T 12705--2009） and the adjusted test parameters based on actual situations, simulation was conducted of fiber projecting-out resulted from all kinds of acting forces such as extrusion, knead, collision and so on of the garment during wearing, and the quantity of projecting-out fiber was counted. The quantity of projecting-out fiber and related rule were studied under conditions of fabrics with different linear densities and different sewing needles used. The results showed that using smaller and round shaped sewing needle is an effective way to reduce the quantity of projecting-out fiber. This technique can be used in the manufacture of winter woolen garments and the fiber projecting-out resistance of the manufactured garments can be effectively enhanced.