毛衫浮纹类花型创新设计与编织工艺研究

Research on the innovative design and knitting technology of float pattern

通过分析纬编大圆机毛圈形成的浮雕织物、衬纬组织、机织平纹织物、传统的绣花绣品形成的结构和肌理效果,立足于电脑横机各种新颖的编织技术,结合毛衫组织设计流行趋势,依托电脑横机编织系统对浮纹组织成形方法进行创新设计及编织工艺的研究,开发出具有市场潜力的多种肌理风格浮纹织物,并结合花型制版原图和线圈模拟图详细阐述浮纹织物的编织原理和工艺设计要点,通过织物组织实物图直观展现每种浮纹花纹的外观风格,以期拓展浮纹组织设计思路,丰富设计理念,为毛衫花型设计及表现手法提供一定的参考,能为毛衫设计师提供更广阔的灵感来源和创作思路。

In this paper,the author analysis structure and texture of formation by weft knitting machine loop embossed fabric,weft insertion stitch,plain woven fabric,traditional embroidery. The stitch forming method are studied under the condition of a variety of novel computer flat knitting technology,and combined with the stitch design trends,relying on Jiangsu Jinlong Technology Co.,Ltd.Dragon Star brand computerized flat knitting machine system,innovation design and weaving technology of float forming method. This paper developed a variety of texture styles with the market potential of the float fabric. It explained the knitting principle and point of process design of the float fabric organization that combined with the pattern making artwork and coil simulation diagram. And it displayed each kind of the float fabric organization design and style through the fabric physical map,it can be used to widen design ideas and enrich concepts,which also can be taken as good examples for the design of the float fabric. And it provided wider for sweater designer source of inspiration and creative thinking.