大黄及栀子黄染料对桑蚕丝的染色工艺研究

Dyeing Process Study of Rhubarb and Gardenia Yellow Dyes on Mulberry Silk

从中药大黄和栀子中提取黄色天然染料,研究该染料对桑蚕丝的染色性能。分别采用直接染色工艺和后媒染色工艺对桑蚕丝染色,研究了染色温度对试样K/S值及反射率R的影响,探讨了染色pH值及媒染剂对试样K/S值及色度值的影响。实验结果表明:大黄及栀子黄上染桑蚕丝适宜的染色pH值为3,温度为55℃(大黄)和75℃(栀子黄),在此条件下可获得较高的染色深度(K/S值)。直接染色、硫酸锌及硫酸铝媒染可获得暗黄色(大黄)及艳黄色(栀子)试样,硫酸亚铁媒染获得暗绿色(大黄)及黄绿色(栀子)试样。栀子黄染料媒染试样的牢度可达到3级,大黄染色试样色牢度较低。

The natural yellow dyestuffs were extracted from Chinese herb rhubarb root and gardenia respectively and the dyeing performance of the extracted dyes on mulberry silk fabric was studied.The direct dyeing method and post-mordant dyeing method were used in silk dyeing process.The effects of dyeing temperature on K/S value and reflectivity R of the samples were studied and the effects of dyeing pH value and mordant on the K/S value and chromaticity were explored.The results indicated that the right dyeing conditions of silk by the two natural yellow dyes were pH value 3,55℃(Rhubarb)and 75℃(gardenia yellow),higher K/S value could be acquired under the condition.The dark yellow(rhubarb)and bright yellow(gardenia)samples could be obtained by direct dyeing and mordant dyeing with zinc sulfate and aluminum sulfate respectively,and dark green(rhubarb)and yellow-green(gardenia)silk could be acquired by mordant dyeing with ferrous sulfate.The color fastness of gardenia yellow dyed samples could reach level 3 while the color fastness of the samples dyed with rhubarb was relatively poor.