江苏传统服饰手工技艺的价值认同路径研究--从“生产性保护”到“生活化传承”

Research on the Value Identification Path of Jiangsu Traditional Costume Handicraft:From"Productive Protection"to"Lifestyle Inheritance"

在非物质文化遗产保护的语境下,“生产性保护”是实现江苏传统服饰手工技艺价值认同的重要方式之一,在一定程度上对技艺的传承发展起到了积极的作用。然而,随着“生产性保护”工作的深入展开,生产实践中出现了因追求市场利益最大化,而忽视技艺“生活化”特质的现象,导致民众对文化产品技艺价值认同不足,无法完全实现文化产品自觉自信的消费认同。因此,文章围绕江苏传统服饰手工技艺“生产性保护”的现状,结合当下民众生活文化需求,指出应以“生活化传承”为导向,建立技艺生产与民众日常生活需要的深度关联,探索构建弥补技艺价值认同缺憾的有效途径。

In the context of intangible cultural heritage protection, "productive protection"is one of the important ways to achieve the recognition of the value of traditional costume handicraft in Jiangsu Province,which plays a positive role in the inheritance and development of handicraft to a certain extent. However,with the deepening of the productive protection work,the production practice appears to be driven by the pursuit of maximization of market interests while ignoring the "daily life"characteristics of skills,resulting in the public’s insufficient recognition of the technical value of cultural products and the inability to fully realize the self-conscious and confident consumption recognition of cultural products. Therefore,based on the current situation of "productive protection"of traditional costume handicraft in Jiangsu Province and the needs of people’s living culture,this paper points out that it should be guided by "inheritance in daily life",establish a deep connection between traditional costume handicraft production and people’s daily needs,and explore effective ways to build up the deficiency of recognition of handicraft value.