一“鲜”难求?地方流动对可持续饮食系统的影响机制

HARD TO FIND A "FRESH" MEAL?RESEARCH ON PLACE MOBILITY AND SUSTAINABLE FOOD SYSTEMS

可持续饮食系统的研究愈发受人重视,当前从关系主义视角的研究,偏重于与食物前向关联的“身体”,忽视了与食物后向关联的“地方”。本文选择福建省罗源县为案例研究地,分析了20世纪90年代至今罗源饮食地理的变化情况,旨在探究地方流动对地方饮食系统的影响机制。研究发现,罗源从“海味、清鲜、笋糟、非标准”的闽菜系主导的地方饮食特征变为多元菜系并存的标准化饮食特点,原来日常生活中常见的“新鲜”变得一“鲜”难求。该变化是由工业化、城镇化造成的“去地化”结构性因素与乡贤回家投资、三峡移民饮食跨地方迁移等“再地化”因素共同影响形成的。本文提出地方饮食系统的可持续性取决于个体的差异化感知,不能用生产—消费饮食系统的可持续性来替代个体对“可持续”的具身感知认同。

The study of sustainable food systems has received increasing attention. Current research from a relationalist perspective has focused on the ’body’, which is associated with food in the forward direction, but has neglected the ’place’, which is associated with food in the backward direction. In this paper, we choose Luoyuan County in Fujian Province as a case study to analyse the changes in Luoyuan’s food geography from the 1990s to the present, with the aim of investigating the mechanisms of place mobility on local food systems. The study finds that Luoyuan has changed from a local diet dominated by Fujian cuisine to a ’placeless’ standard food, with a variety of cuisines co-existing. The ’freshness’ that was once common in everyday life has become "hard to find". This change is due to the structural factors of "de-localisation" caused by industrialisation and urbanisation, as well as the "re-localisation" factors such as the return of enterprise to their homes for investment and the cross-local migration of Three Gorges migrants. One of its contributions is to fill the gap in the study of ’place mobility’ and local sustainable food system. It also positions ’place’ in a dynamic spatio-temporal context, rather than just as a cross-sectional factor at a particular time scale. Secondly, it is a reflection on the ’sustainability’ of the food system, which depends not only on the structural dynamics of local mobility at different scales, but also on differentiated perceptions of place. The sustainability of the production-consumption food system cannot be used as a substitute for the individual’s embodied perception of ’sustainability’. Thirdly, the case chosen for this paper is the researcher’s hometown, and the adoption of a life-course-like participatory observation approach also carries a certain level of methodological inquiry.