酵母生物活性物质及其化妆品功效研究进展

Advances in Yeast Bioactive Substances and Their Cosmetic Efficacy

随着《化妆品监督管理条例》及其配套文件的实施,对化妆品原料安全性和功效性都提出了更具体的要求。酵母能够合成多种生物活性物质且安全性高,利用酵母来获取化妆品功效原料已成为化妆品行业的创新突破口。概述了酵母作为细胞工厂生产活性糖类、多肽类、萜类、维生素、多酚类等天然产物方面的研究进展,梳理总结了酵母提取物以及酵母相关生物活性物质的美白、保湿、舒缓、防晒、抗皱等多种化妆品功效,并展望了酵母在化妆品原料领域的开发和应用前景。

With the implementation of Cosmetic Supervision and Adminstration Regulation and its supporting documents,there are more specific requirements for the safety and efficacy of cosmetics.Because yeast can synthesize various bioactive substances with high safety,using yeast to obtain effective raw materials for cosmetics has become an innovation breakthrough in the industry.In this review,the research progress of yeast as a cell factory to produce bioactive sugars,peptides,vitamins,terpenoids and other natural products was summarized.The effects of yeast extract and bioactive substances in yeast on whitening,moisturizing,sunscreen,anti-aging and other cosmetics were introduced.The development and application of yeast as raw material of cosmetics were also prospected.