跨地方视角下非物质文化遗产地方性的多尺度建构

Multiscale constructions of interconnections between place and intangible cultural heritage from a translocal perspective

非物质文化遗产是源自特定社区、群体或个人的社会实践,地方性是非遗的主要特征。在全球化与地方化的相互作用下,非遗的地方性不仅被本土要素塑造,更是被超越本土的不同物质、知识技术和观念符号等共同建构。本文采用多源数据分析了3个服饰品牌对珠三角地区香云纱及其染整技艺的地方性表征。研究发现,由于在跨地方网络中的位置性差异,各个品牌采用不同的尺度策略形成了关于香云纱及其染整技艺地方性的多种叙事。具体来看:①本土化策略将品牌主理人的本土身份与本土文化资源的领域相对应,将传统非遗所包含的历史、气候、资源、文化等关键地方性要素定位为品牌市场运作的核心竞争力;②多重再地化策略是品牌在本土、区域和全球的多重尺度上进行资源整合,利用各层面机会进行品牌运作,同时将非遗实践与多尺度的议程连接起来;③地方杂糅策略在世界主义价值观的主导下,融合了不同地方的理念、话语和知识,将非遗实践塑造为全球多元文化的杂糅景观。本文诠释了在非遗实践中尺度是非层级的、网络化的。相应非遗的地方性是关系化的和情境化的,不是由边界所限定而成,而是被非遗实践所创造的地方之间的关联所塑造。

Intangible Cultural Heritage(ICH),stemming from the social practices of communities,groups,or individuals,is intrinsically linked to specific locales.The dynamic interplay of globalization and localization has significantly expanded the material,conceptual,and symbolic dimensions of ICH,pushing its boundaries beyond their origins.The study explores the dyeing and finishing techniques of Gambiered Canton Gauze(Xiangyunsha)in the Pearl River Delta,examining both the tangible products and their representation within three apparel companies.By analyzing data from diverse sources,this study uncovers how brands'positions within translocal networks establish norms and scaling strategies,forging multiple ICH narratives.Each of the three brands incorporates Xiangyunsha into its design.The first,a local enterprise,demarcates an exclusive domain of heritage.Through its localization strategy,the brand's owner aligns her local identity with this heritage domain,claiming right to interpret and steward its authenticity,leveraging local elements such as history,climate,resources,and culture as a competitive advantage in marketing.The second enterprise employs a multiple localization strategy,engaging with local,regional,and global assets to advance brand development.Though not a native brand,it has established significant partnerships with local authorities to safeguard heritage,positioning it as a global eco-conscious fashion icon and achieving scale-jumping.The third brand,founded by a Western designer with international experience and an ecletic artistic sensibility,along with her Chinese husband,follows a hybrid localization strategy.Operating from China's capital,rather than the heartland of Xiangyunsha production,the brand weaves ICH practices into the global cultural fabric.This approach results in a mosaic that mirrors current cosmopolitan values,enriched by an ongoing influx of innovative ideas,discourse,and knowledge.This study discerns that scales within ICH practices are interconnected,presenting a non-hierarchical relationship.It posits that the sense of locality and place in ICH is fluid and contextual,shaped by a web of connections forged through ICH practice.