化妆品中两种典型美白剂的经皮渗透规律

Transdermal Permeation of Two Typical Whitening Agents in Cosmetics

采用离体猪腹部皮肤通过Franz扩散池法对不同剂型化妆品(水、精华液、面霜)中烟酰胺和苯乙基间苯二酚进行了经皮渗透研究。采用高效液相色谱串联-质谱法对接收液和皮肤中的美白剂进行定量分析,并计算美白剂的累积渗透率和皮肤滞留率等指标。同时对3种化妆品的美白功效分别进行了人体评价。结果表明:在3种化妆品中,烟酰胺的渗透率都超过60%,苯乙基间苯二酚的渗透率都低于30%,烟酰胺的经皮吸收能力明显优于苯乙基间苯二酚;2种美白剂在面霜中的渗透率最低。另一方面,脂溶性较强的苯乙基间苯二酚,其皮肤滞留率与累积渗透率的比值更高,表明其更倾向滞留在皮肤中。人体评价结果显示3个样品都具有美白功效,表明添加量与功效之间并非是简单的正相关。

The skin permeations of niacinamide and phenylethyl resorcinol in different cosmetic(toner,essence,cream)were investigated by using the Franz-type diffusion experiments in full thickness porcine skin in vitro infinite dose.Quantitative analyses of whitening agents in the receiving liquid and skin were performed by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry.Meanwhile,the whitening efficacy of cosmetics was evaluated on the human body.The results showed that the permeability of niacinamide in all cosmetics exceeded 60%,and the penetration of phenylethyl resorcinol was lower than 30%.The transdermal absorption ability of niacinamide was significantly better than that of phenylethyl resorcinol.The penetration of the whitening agent in the cream was the lowest in the three samples.In addition,phenylethyl resorcinol had strong lipid solubility and a higher ratio of skin retention rate to cumulative penetration,indicating that it was more likely to stay in the skin.The evaluation results of human efficacy showed that all three types of cosmetic had whitening effects,indicating that there was not a simple positive correlation between the additive amount and efficacy.