苏南水乡妇女服饰中的镶滚工艺

Binding craft of women′s clothing of Sunan watery region

苏南水乡妇女服饰的装饰工艺具有鲜明的地域特色,是当地上千年来传统文化积淀的结果,具有很高程度的艺术价值与实用价值.研究苏南水乡妇女服饰中的"镶"与"滚"的特征,并从裁剪工艺与缝制工艺两方面入手,记录了相关数据与制作流程,分析了大襟衫、三角包头及束腰上的镶滚工艺的形制特征.同时又通过对个例的分析,总结出镶滚结合的装饰工艺在服装中的实际意义,从实用角度来看可使服装更耐磨、经穿、更加适体;从审美角度来看,是在色彩上起到美化整体作用,同时"线"与"面"的结合丰富了设计语言与层次,其中一些独到的技法可以给现代服装设计与装饰带来借鉴与启发.

With distinct regional features formed as a result of the accumulation of traditional culture over thousands of years, the decoration of women＇s clothing of Sunan watery region possesses a great artistic and utility value. The characteristics of ＂edging＂ and ＂binding＂ craft applied in Sunan women＇s dress are discussed, which started with aspects as cut-out skills and sewing techniques, related data and the manufacturing process are recorded, and forms and features of ＂edging＂ and ＂binding＂ craft of Chinese style blouse （unlined and with its buttons on the right） and headcloth with gussets as well as waist skirt are analyzed. Meanwhile, individual cases are decomposed to conclude the practical significance of the decorative craft covering both ＂edging＂ and ＂binding＂ in garments. It makes the clothing more resistant and more durable and better suitable for human body from a practical point of view and beautifies the whole color from an artistic point of view. Moreover, combining ＂lines＂ with ＂surfaces＂ enriches the design language and some unique techniques make reference to and give insights into modern fashion design.