提升靛蓝牛仔耐湿摩擦色牢度和手感的加工方法

Treatment method for improving both the colorfastness to wet rubbing and the hand feeling of indigo denim

以浸洗温度、浸洗时间、湿摩牢度提升剂WT用量、烘焙温度为影响因子,按正交实验设计方案处理靛蓝牛仔织物,通过测定织物平滑性、柔软性和耐摩擦色牢度评价湿摩牢度提升剂的作用效果,得出各因素作用的大小和最佳处理工艺。并进一步探讨了柔软剂OK和湿摩牢度提升剂WT处理顺序对牛仔织物各项性能的影响。结果表明,浸洗温度20℃,浸洗时间15 min,湿摩牢度提升剂用量20 g/L,焙烘温度150℃时,湿摩牢度提升剂的作用效果最佳。先浸渍湿摩牢度提升剂,烘干、焙烘后,再浸渍柔软剂,烘干,可以兼顾提升耐摩擦色牢度、手感和其他性能的要求。

Using impregnation temperature, time, dosage of colorfastness to wet rubbing improving agent（WT） and baking temperature as influencing factors, the indigo denim fabric was treated according to orthogonal design. The performance of WT, the sequencing of factors and the best processing technology was evaluated by measuring the dynamic friction coefficient, softness and colorfastness to wet rubbing of the fabric.The effects of processing sequence of softening agent OK and colorfastness to wet rubbing improving agent WT on the properties of denim fabrics were further discussed. The optimum results showed that when impregnation temperature was 20 ℃, impregnation time was 15 min, dosage of WT was 20 g/L and baking temperature was 150 ℃, the effect of colorfastness to wet rubbing improving agent was the best. Firstly impregnated with WT, followed by drying and baking, then impregnated softener, drying, colorfastness to wet rubbing, hand feeling, and others could be obvious improved together.