19世纪末20世纪初美式“中国风”服饰现象浅析——以美国康奈尔大学纺织服饰博物馆收藏为例

An Analysis of the Phenomenon of American Chinoiserie in the Late 19th Century and Early 20th Century:Taking the Collection of the Cornell Costume and Textile Collection as an example

美国收藏了数量可观的中国近现代服饰与纺织品,大多是19世纪末20世纪初"中国风"流行时期的产物,是研究中国近现代服饰和中西方文化交流的重要学术资源。康奈尔大学(Cornell University)是美国著名的常青藤学校,人类生态学院的纺织服饰博物馆(简称CCTC)收藏了一批中国服饰品,其收藏途径和藏品本身具有美国收藏的典型特征。本文以CCTC藏品为研究对象,结合同时期的绘画作品,探索中国样式融入美国时尚流行的历史样貌。研究发现,美国女性在日常生活中身体力行地践行着"中国风",中国服饰品显示出对于美国流行文化不同的适应性和融合力,经过各种尝试和改良,中国的传统图案和服装轮廓造型成为"中国风"设计的主题元素,中国刺绣成为"中国风"图案的技术代表,中国元素与西方服饰的融合则成为不衰的设计主题。

The United States collects a respectable number of modern Chinese costumes and textiles,most of which are the remains of Chinoserie in the late 19 th and early 20 th century.Those are important academic resources in researches on modern Chinese clothing and cultural exchanges between China and the West.The Chinese costume and accessories which are collected in Cornell Costume and Textile Collection(known as CCTC)of college of Human Ecology,Cornell University,a well-known Ivy League University,show typical characteristics of American collection style,both in the manner of collecting and in these collections.This article takes the CCTC collection as the research object,and combines the paintings of the same period to explore the historical appearance of Chinese style integrating into American fashion.Studies have found that American female practice Chinoserie in their daily life,and in case of America popular culture,Chinese costume shows different adaptability and the power of converging.After various trails and adaptations,Chinese traditional textile patterns and costume silhouette has risen up to the key motifs of Chinoserie design,in which the Chinese embroidery has become the technical representative of Chinoserie patterns,and the fusion of Chinoserie factors and western styles is assumed a long lasting theme for fashion design.