《延喜式》中的花楼织机研究

Study on Hualou string-heddle patterning looms in Engishiki

针对日本《延喜式》记录中花楼织机是否存在的问题,文章运用中日古文献、纺织品考古两维印证的方法,得到最早在初唐末期,至迟在晚唐时期花楼织机已经传播到日本,并极大促进了日本织造水平提高的结论。研究表明:《延喜式》中绫织机织匠数与花楼织机织匠人数吻合,反映了其绫织机为花楼织机的可能;中国《敦煌文书》辅证了花楼织机最初应用于绫织物的事实,同时,现藏于日本正仓院的染织文物实证了日本延长年间花楼织机的存在;《延喜式》中织部寮织机用竹数量符合花楼织机衢脚的需求,并且绫织机综丝用量符合花楼织机装造规律。文章结合《大宝律令》中有关“挑文师”的记录,可以推断最早初唐末期、至迟晚唐时期日本织部司存在着花楼织机。

Engishiki,a Japanese statute written in the fifth year of Enchōin Japan(927 A.D.)records a large number of silk fabric varieties in Japan at that time and the specific operation system and situation of the weaving department run by the imperial court of Japan.Since most of the ancient Japanese textile technologies were spread from China,Engishiki is of great value for studying various Japanese silk fabrics in the Tang Dynasty(618-907 A.D.)and the ancient textile technology and cultural exchange between China and Japan.Studying the history of ancient textile cultural exchange between China and Japan,and even the history of ancient Chinese textiles from“the other”perspective of Japanese,might yield some more scientific and reasonable new perspectives.After a comparative analysis of information on the Hualou string-heddle patterning loom hidden in the Japanese Engishiki with that of Chinese Dunhuang Documents and the Chinese and Japanese textiles in the Tang Dynasty by referring to ancient Chinese and Japanese literature and conducting archaeological research on concurrent textiles,three important conclusions are drawn.First,the number of weavers of twill looms in Engishiki is consistent with that of the Hualou string-heddle patterning loom,which reflects the possibility that the twill loom is a Hualou string-heddle patterning loom.Second,Dunhuang Documents of China corroborates the fact that Hualou string-heddle patterning looms were first used in twill.At the same time,the dyeing and weaving cultural relics now stored in Shosoin of Japan demonstrate the existence of Hualou string-heddle patterning looms in the Enchōperiod of Japan.Third,in Engishiki,the quantity of bamboo used in looms in the weaving department is in line with the requirements of the foot of Hualou string-heddle patterning looms and the amount of heald wire used in weaving machine is in line with the assembly rule of Hualou string-heddle patterning looms.In addition,according to Japanese textile technologists recorded in Taiho Ritsuryo(Taiho Code),it can be inferred that there were Hualou string-heddle patterning looms in the weaving department of Japan at the earliest end of the early Tang Dynasty or at the latest of Late Tang Dynasty.And,they were widely used in the weaving affairs of the Japanese weaving department,producing a large number of high-end twill fabrics for the court.The systematical and in-depth collecting,sorting and analyzing of the silk fabric varieties,weaving machines,process,etc.,in Japan’s Engishiki play an important supporting role in demonstrating the Hualou string-heddle patterning looms,which appeared in the early Tang Dynasty(618-713)and spread to Japan in the late early Tang Dynasty.Although there is no clear mention of words such as“Lou patterning looms”and“Hualou string-heddle patterning looms”in Engishiki,it cannot deny the possibility of the existence of Hualou string-heddle patterning loom in the Japanese imperial palace’s weaving department during the Tang Dynasty.There was a tradition of loom exchange between China and Japan in ancient times,which was mainly caused by the cultural difference.As the inferior,Japan began actively learning textile technology from China since the two Jin Dynasties.The study to the ancient Chinese textile technology based on the ancient Japanese documents is not only a study of the history of Chinese and Japanese textile exchange,but also an important means of seeking alternative evidence in the study of ancient Chinese textile technology.