波浪在陡坡上传播演化破碎特性试验研究

Experimental Study on Wave Propagation and Evolution Characteristics of Wave-breaking on Steep Slope

文中选取不同波浪入射参数和水深,分析了波浪在陡坡上传播破碎规律,采用高速摄像机对卷破破碎组次进行拍摄,结合频谱分析对陡坡上波浪破碎形态、破碎位置、波能演化特性进行研究.结果表明:对于卷破破碎波,影响最大的因素是水深,其次是波高和周期.卷破波破碎的过程是水团和卷舌不断演化扩大最后消失的过程,是波能从低频向高频转换的过程,高倍频向主频及次频转移最终趋于稳定标志着卷破破碎的结束.

Selecting different wave incident parameters and water depths,the law of wave propagation and breaking on steep slopes was analyzed.High-speed camera was used to photograph the rolling and breaking groups,and the wave breaking shape,breaking position and wave energy evolution characteristics on steep slope were studied in combination with frequency spectrum analysis.The results show that the water depth is the most important factor,followed by wave height and period.The breaking process of rolling wave is the process that water mass and rolling tongue constantly evolve,expand and finally disappear,and it is the process that wave energy changes from low frequency to high frequency.The shift of high frequency to primary frequency and secondary frequency finally tends to be stable,which indicates the end of rolling and breaking.