凹凸立体肌理织物在电脑横机上的开发

Development of Concave-convex Stereoscopic Texture Fabric on Computerized Flat Knitting Machine

为提高毛衫设计人员的织物组织创新设计开发能力,设计出满足消费者需求的时尚化、个性化毛衫,通过将毛衫织物组织设计与编织工艺、纱线弹性、织物组织特性相结合,在斯托尔电脑横机上设计开发了立体效果明显、富有创意的凹凸立体肌理织物。文章从移圈组织、集圈组织、局部编织、变线圈长度编织、不同组织的组合、不同弹性的纱线组合使用等方面,分析各种凹凸立体肌理织物的形成原理、编织方法和外观效应,并对其设计要点及注意事项进行探讨。

To further improve the innovative design and development ability of sweater designers,and meet the consumers'demand for fashionable and personalized sweaters,several concave-convex stereoscopic texture fabrics with obvious stereoscopic effect and rich innovation are designed and manufactured on Stoll computerized flat kntting machine in view of fabric pattern design,yarn elasticity and fabric properties.The kniting method and the appearance effect of fabrics are investigated in terms of loop transfer,tuck,partial knitting,variable loop length,different fabric structure and yarn elasticity.The key points of design and precautions in kntting process are discussed in this paper.