北京大学藏秦简《制衣》“襲”衣研究

Study of the"Xi"Clothes in Making Clothes on the Qin Bamboo Slips Housed at Peking University

“襲”衣在近两千年的“裼襲”礼辩中一直未被准确定论,致使部分学者质疑“襲”衣的存在。随着北京大学藏秦代简牍《制衣》的出世与解译工作的开展,其中有关“襲”衣的记载证实其真实性。结合《制衣》所记载的“前襲”尺寸与制法,以及对相关文物、遣策及典籍文献展开研究,将“襲”衣的形制分为“前襲”“反襲”,色彩分为了“素襲”“彩襲”,特征分为了“襌襲”“复襲”,并对“襲”衣的“反襲”形制进行推测与讨论,认为可能为“外削服”“内削服”、“正缝”“反缝”或“正图腾”“反图腾”3种类型之一。

In the nearly 2000 years of ritual debates over"xixi",the ancient ceremonial dress,there has been no final conclusion about"xi"clothes.Therefore,some scholars once doubted the existence of"xi"clothes.However,with the publication and interpretation of Making Clothes from the Qin bamboo slips housed at Peking University,the existence of"xi"clothes has been confirmed.By examining the size and method of making"qian xi"recorded in Making Clothes,as well as relevant research on related cultural relics,tomb inventories,and canonical literature,"xi"clothes are divided into"qian xi"and"hou xi"based on their shape,categorized as"plain xi"and"colored xi"according to the color,and classified as"singlelayer xi"and"multilayer xi"in light of their characteristics.Furthermore,discussions and speculations have been made on the existence of"hou xi".It suggests that it may belong to one of three types:"outer cut garment""inner cut garment","right seam""wrong seam"or"right totem""wrong totem".