女装成衣细部规格与人体关系实证分析

Empirical Study of the Relationship Between Women’s Ready-to-wear Detailed Specifications and the Human Body

用马丁测量仪测量人体数据,用SPSS 23.0软件进行数据处理与分析。纵向以身高分组,横向以身体质量指数(BMI)分组,分别实证各组成衣规格设计主要控制部位与人体身高、胸围之间的比例关系。结果表明,不同个体之间第7颈椎点高、腰围高与身高的比例差异较大,坐姿颈椎点高、臂长与身高的比值差异较小;腰围、颈围与胸围的比值随BMI增大而增大;臀围、总肩宽与胸围的比值随BMI减小而减小。并分别计算成衣各细部规格与身高、净胸围的基本比值,以各部位生理放松量为基础,获得成衣细部规格与身高、净胸围之间的关系式。

Human body data are measured by Martinometer,which are processed and analyzed by SPSS 23.0software.The ratio between the main control parts of each garment specification design and the height and bust circumference is empirically demonstrated by grouping height vertically and body mass index(BMI)horizontally,respectively.The results show that the ratios of 7th cervical vertebra point height and waist circumference height to height varies widely among individuals,and the ratios of sitting cervical vertebra point height and arm length to height varied less;the ratios of waist circumference,neck circumference and chest circumference increases with increasing BMI;the ratios of hip circumference and total shoulder width to chest circumference decreases with decreasing of BMI.It calculates the basic ratio of each detailed specification of garment to height and net chest circumference respectively,takes the physiological relaxation amount of each part as the basis,increases the corresponding relaxation amount according to the loose style of garment,and finally obtains the relationship equation between detailed specification of garment and height and net chest circumference.