女性彩妆消费中的符号生产研究——鲍德里亚消费批判理论的再思考

Research on Sign Production in Women's Cosmetics Consumption———Rethinking on the Baudrillard's Critical Theory of Consumption

青年时期的鲍德里亚对商品社会中的消费进行了系统的研究,为后来者的消费社会研究打下了基础。当代中国蓬勃的彩妆消费可以作为研究消费社会的切入点,当色彩被推入市场时,商家为其赋予了品名符号,色彩经历了第一次符号学角度上的双重分节。而网购时代的到来使得普通消费者获得了符号生产的工具,在新的消费空间当中,彩妆产品发生了第二次松散但是更有传播力和识别度的分节,符号在新的消费场域里被生成、被改变、被利用。彩妆符号的生产里也反映出了女性的愿望,对其的关注是彩妆消费研究的题中应有之义。而鲍德里亚的批判理论也需要在新的消费场景中被重新审视。

Baudrillard,in his youth,made a systematic study of consumption in commodity society,and laid the foundation for later Studies of consumer society.The burgeoning consumption of cosmetics in contemporary China can serve as an entry point of consumer society.When color was introduced into the market,merchants gave them product name,and the first double articulation of the color was done,in the perspective of semiotics.The arrival of the online shopping era has enabled ordinary consumers to obtain tools for sign production,and it generated the second double articulation of the make-up products,compared with the first double articulation,the second one is loose but more disseminated and recognizable,and signs are generated,changed and utilized in the new consumption field.The production of make-up signs reflects women's aspirations,and paying attention to them is an essential part of the study of make-up consumption.At the same time,Baudrillard's critique theory also needs to be re-examined in the context of a new consumer scene.