斜坡地形上正向、斜向和多向不规则波统计特征参数研究

Study on statistical characteristic parameters of normal, oblique incident and multidirectional irregular waves on slope

目前,大多数关于斜坡地形上波浪统计特征参数的研究都是基于正向入射规则波或不规则波进行的。该文通过物理模型试验,对正向、斜向和多向不规则波在1:15斜坡地形上基于谱矩描述的波浪破碎指标以及波浪的统计特征参数进行了研究。研究结果表明,在该试验条件下,斜向不规则波的破碎指标略大于正向不规则波,而多向不规则波的破碎指标可以采用正向不规则波的拟合结果;波浪的入射方向和方向分布对各特征波高与√m_(0)(m_(0)为波浪频谱的零阶矩)的比值、各特征波高之间的比值以及不对称度、偏度和峰度的影响不大。另外,给出了该斜坡上不对称度和偏度与Ursell参数的关系以及偏度与峰度的关系。

At present,most studies of wave statistical characteristic parameters on slope are based on normal incident regular or irregular waves.In this study,the wave breaker index based on spectral moment and statistical characteristic parameters of oblique incident unidirectional and multidirectional irregular waves on a 1:15 slope are experimentally investigated.Under the present experiment condition,the breaker index of oblique irregular waves is slightly larger than that of normal irregular waves,while the breaker index of normal irregular waves is suggested to use as that of multidirectional waves.The incident direction and directional spreading of waves have little effect on the ratio of each representative wave height to√m_(0)(where m_(0)represents the zeroth moment of the wave spectrum),the ratio between each representative wave height,as well as the asymmetry,skewness and kurtosis.In addition,the relationships between asymmetry and skewness with Ursell parameters,and the relationship between skewness with kurtosis on slope are given.