怪诞之美:18世纪英国的时尚与中国审美趣味

Monstrous Beauty: Eighteenth-Century Fashion and the Aesthetics of the Chinese Taste

中国风是一种17、18世纪席卷全欧洲的艺术文化现象。博达伟认为,中国风对传统的审美价值观构成了巨大的挑战。它促进了18世纪英国的趣味和审美思潮的形成,拓展了审美对象的范围。在它所代表的感性审美中,与中国文化相阻隔的体验取代了审美的无利害性。而女性在这种艺术风格中的角色不只是附和者,她们的意见是时尚和品味的来源。本文从审美合法性、时尚消费主义和文化阻隔的角度揭示了中国风受欢迎的原因。

Chinoiserie was a pan-Europeanart,cultural and aesthetic phenomenon in the 17th and18th centuries.Porter suggests that Chinoiserie may have informed or interacted with the emergence of discourses of taste and aesthetics in eighteenthcentury Britain,and its association with the expansion of commercial activity.This article outlines the reasons for Chinoiserie’s appeal from aesthetic legitimacy,fashion consumption,and alienation.In the context of Chinoiserie,Porter reconstructing those illicit forms of aesthetic agency and sensibility that were elided or repressed altogether in classical taste.Chinoiserie constitutes a significant challenge to traditional conceptions of aesthetic value.The exoticism of the style contributed to the transformative potential of this aesthetic bricolage.Disinterestedness was displaced by the experience of cultural alienation in this new aesthetic attitude.