身体美学与饮食艺术

Somaesthetics and the Fine Art of Eating

本文探讨身体美学和饮食艺术的关系。文章首先给出饮食美学的三个维度,即烹饪艺术、食物鉴赏与批评艺术和饮食艺术。继而针对饮食艺术,这一前人研究的薄弱环节,作者认为饮食艺术应区别于单纯吃的行为,其本质是时间艺术,同时也是一门表演艺术。饮食艺术带来了认知、道德和审美方面的价值。通过提升单一感官和多感官鉴别力,以完善感官感知能力,是饮食艺术对身体美学修养最独特的贡献方式。饮食艺术的构成,主要包括饮食姿态、饮食运动、饮食器具、食物选择和锐化身体内部空间感知。文末,作者举例分析西方和东方饮食姿态选择的问题,并引自己在日本禅宗道场用餐时的体验作为案例,以佐证饮食艺术的审美价值。

The paper explores the relationship between somaesthetics and the fine art of eating.It begins with the three dimensions of the aesthetics of gastronomy,namely,the art of cuisine,the art of food appreciation and criticism,as well as the fine art of eating.The author thinks that the art of eating,about which few researches have been conducted,should be distinguished from the mere act of eating,and it is in essence a temporal art and a performing art.The art of eating brings about the cognitive,moral and aesthetic values.Perfecting sensory perception through heightened sensory discrimination and transmodal appreciation is perhaps the most distinctive way that dining’s art contributes to somaesthetic self-cultivation.The art of eating is composed of the posture of eating,the movements of eating,the accessories of eating,the selection of foods and their sequencing,as well as cultivating and sharpening perceptions of inner bodily space.At the end of the paper,the author analyses the different gesture choices between the East and the West,taking as an example his own experience of eating at a Zen dojo in Japan so as to prove the aesthetic value of the art of eating.