十九世纪法国时尚体系构成

Components of the French Fashion System in the 19th Century

对于一个国家而言,时尚是文化与经济交织的产物,是互为表里的一种整体思想与文化策略。作为一种非主体的社会现象,有关时尚相关研究持续渐进,但尚未有将时尚现象作为时尚系统运转和创意经济产物视角的研究。联系格奥尔格·齐美尔、赫拜特·布鲁默等学者的前期研究,挖掘时尚内涵及其与社会、空间层次及设计策略的关系。基于19世纪法国社会主流群体审美趣味选择探讨时代精神与时尚观念,梳理时尚脉络与发展轨迹。以法国时尚体系为例,探讨时尚体系的核心成员、整体架构与空间层次,进而分解时尚体系的维度与各子系统运作方式。

For a country,fashion is a product of the interweaving of culture and economy,as well as an integrated thought and cultural strategy.As a non-subjective social phenomenon,the research on fashion has been continued to be gradual.But there has been no research on fashion phenomenon from the perspective of the operation of fashion system and the product of creative economy.In order to explore the relationship between the connotation of fashion and society,spatial levels and design strategies,we contacted with the previous studies of Georg Simmel,Herbert Blumer and other scholars.Based on the mainstream aesthetic taste in France in 19 th century,this paper discusses the spirit at that times and the concept of fashion,and sorts out the context and development path of fashion.Taking French fashion system as an example,this paper explores core members of the fashion system,overall architecture and space level,and further decomposes the dimension of fashion system and the operation of its subsystems.