从胡服到褒衣——论唐宋明圆领袍服饰形制变迁

From Foreign Clothing to Han Clothing——On the Changes of the Clothing form of Round Collar Clothes for Tang, Song and Ming Dynasty

圆领袍最初为胡人所着衣物,南北朝时期来自中亚的粟特商人从撒马尔罕出发,携带当地商品与文化一同进入中原地区。圆领袍作为一种胡服样式因其舒适性、便捷性被北朝鲜卑统治者所接受,在唐代加以改良和汉化之后,圆领袍成为了我国中原汉族一种极为重要的服装形制,宋、明两朝延续唐代服制,保留圆领袍作为官员、贵族常服的基本功能。圆领袍从胡服到褒衣的形制、性质嬗变,是丝绸之路文化交流的缩影,也是域外文化融入中华文明,并被中原汉族文化同化的证明。

The round neck robe was originally worn by the Sogdians.During the Northern and Southern Dynasties,Sogdian merchants from Central Asia set out from Samarkand and entered China with local commodities and culture.As a Sogdian style of clothing,the round-neck robe was accepted by the rulers of the Northern Dynasties because of its comfort and convenience.After being improved and sinicized in the Tang Dynasty,the round-neck robe became an extremely important clothing form for the Chinese Han nationality.The Song and Ming dynasties continued the Tang Dynasty clothing system and retained the round-neck robe as a kind of official uniform.The evolution of the shape and nature of the round-neck robe from Sogdian clothing to Han clothing is the epitome of cultural exchanges on the Silk Road,and it is also a proof that foreign cultures have been integrated into Chinese civilization and assimilated by the culture of the Han nationality in the Central Plains.