北朝隋代服饰刻画平结图像及其西方来源

Research on Northern Dynasties and Sui Dynasty Images of Flat Knots and the Western Origins of This Type of Dress

平结,又称赫拉克勒斯结,由一对方向相反的单结组成,以同侧绳带同上或同下为特征。汉地服饰平结图像于北魏中晚期之际出现后缓慢发展,北齐、北周至隋代迅速发展,分布在中原北方经济文化相对发达区域。大多见于佛陀、菩萨、守护神等佛教造像,少许存在于道教及其他造像,施用于胸带、腰带、帔帛、璎珞等。这种图像创始于古埃及,在古希腊罗马获得较大发展,希腊化时期传入西北印度与中亚,之后继续东传,成为北朝隋代服饰表现的特殊因素。

The flat knot, also known as the Hercules knot, consists of a pair of single knots tied in opposite directions with all the knots on the same side of a rope facing either upward or downward. The flat knot appeared in depictions of Chinese costumes in the mid to late Northern Wei dynasty, developed gradually and eventually became widely used in the relatively well-developed regions of the Central Plains during the Northern Qi, Northern Zhou and Sui dynasties. Most examples of this knot have been found on the chest straps, waist bands, capes and jade necklaces of Buddhist statues of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and guardian deities, while some have also been found in Taoist and folk statuary. The flat knot originated in ancient Egypt and was adopted in ancient Greece and Rome before being spread to Northwest India and Central Asia during the Hellenistic period. It continued traveling eastward and eventually entered China, where it became characteristic of the costume decoration of the Northern Dynasties and Sui dynasty.