胡汉首服的借鉴与革新——以幂篱等女性蔽面首服的流行演变为例

The reference and innovation of headwear between Hu and Han——Take the evolution of the popularity of face covering headwear such as Mili as an example

受到胡汉融合的影响,魏晋南北朝时期幂篱由西北传入中原,逐渐成为中国传统女性蔽面首服代表之一。在时代风气、社会思想文化不断变化的过程中,幂篱等女性蔽面首服亦随之不断流行、演变。本文分析了从幂篱到帷帽到盖头的演变趋势,从服装的实用属性、装饰属性、文化属性以及女性社会地位等角度探讨首服从实用性向美用一体、礼教融入转变的发展规律。

The Mili,which was introduced to the Central Plains during the Wei,Jin,Southern and Northern Dynasties,and was popular in the Tang Dynasty,has evolved and evolved in various periods due to the influence of the times and the social and cultural ideological atmosphere,and has become a more distinctive type of traditional Chinese women’s headwear.This article analyzes the evolution trend from Mili to Weimao to Gaitou,and discusses the development law of the transition from practicality to the integration of beauty and use,and the integration of ethics and education from the perspective of the practical attributes,decorative attributes and cultural attributes and women’s social status.