合体连立领领高与领口省的关系探究

On Relationship Between the Collar Height of the Fitting Grown-on Collar and the Neckline Dart

为研究连立领领高与需要克服的颈肩转折余量之间的关系,采用实验法获取连立领不同领高下领口省的大小,对两者进行回归分析,得到了比例法和回归法2种确定合体连立领领口省量的方法,以及纸样绘制颈侧省时颈侧和肩线的角度范围,在传统制图方法的基础上补充了基于不同领高绘制合体连立领的方法。

In order to explore the relationship between the height of grown-on collar and the turningsurplusage to be overcome,this study used experimentation to gain the pattern of different grown-on collar height,and carried out regression analysis of collar height and dart size.It obtained two methods,namely,Proportion and Regression,to determine the dart size of neckline of grown-on collar and the angle scale of neck side and shoulder line while pattern drawing.Based on the traditional drawing methods,the study added new drawing methods for different collar height.