方南苗族服饰日月星辰纹样的视觉符号交融互动研究

Study on the Visual Symbol Blend and Interaction of the Sun,Moon and Star Pattern in the Costume of Miao Ethnic Group in Fangnan

文章是从苗族服饰中的日月星辰纹样入手研究,调查了其服饰中图案来源、图案造型、文化内涵和文化变迁的过程。引入雷德菲尔德的大小传统理论,分析了太阳纹、月亮纹、"卐字纹"等图案从精英阶层流向平民阶层的历史过程,同时,通过访谈也发现了服饰图案存在小传统逐步发展演化为大传统的现象。由此得出,苗族服饰图案表现下大传统向小传统或小传统向大传统转化并赋予新的文化内涵,表明了苗族服饰图案与当地人的宇宙生成观、苗族历史记忆和文化生成的联系,解读服饰图案的文化生成系统也有助于解读中华文明发展演化的历史过程。基于此,对服饰图案的解读,也有助于探索苗族服饰的发展规律并对其传承与发展提供参考价值。

This paper starts with the research on the patterns of the sun,moon and stars in the Miao people's clothing,and investigates the source of patterns,pattern modeling,cultural connotation and the process of cultural change in their clothing.Introduces Redfield's theory of large and small traditions,analyzes the historical process of patterns such as the sun pattern,the moon pattern and the swastika pattern from the elite class to the common class.At the same time,through the interview,it is also found that there is a phenomenon that the small tradition gradually evolves into the big tradition in costume patterns.Thus,the miao costumes pattern flipping off the big tradition to small traditions or small to large traditional transformation and give a new cultural connotation,shows the miao dress design view of the universe generated with the locals,miao historical memory and cultural generation,unscramble costume pattern culture generation system also helps to interpret the evolution of the Chinese civilization development history process.Based on this,the interpretation of costume patterns can also help to explore the development law of Miao costume and provide reference value for its inheritance and development.