论唐代服饰及夷夏观的演变

Evoluton of Dress and Viewpoints on Han and Minority Nationalities in the Tang Dynasty

唐代服饰有胡服与华服之别 ,胡服为北方少数民族所穿着 ,并影响及于唐人者 ,华服则为沿袭华夏民族自古以来所习用之服饰。唐代服饰的演变 ,大致可分为前后两个阶段 :唐初至开元、天宝末 ,以胡服为时尚 ,胡风盛极一时 ;中唐贞元、元和以后 ,直至唐末 ,虽华服与胡服并存 ,但已逐步恢复汉魏以前的旧观 ,华服渐盛 ,胡服为人们普遍厌弃。这一变化不仅反映出唐人审美风尚的演变 ,其背后则潜藏着唐代夷夏观的变革 ,对后世影响甚大。

Dress in the Tang Dynasty was divided into two categories:Hu dress of the minority nationalities in the North and Hua dress of the Han nationality.There were two stages in the evolution of dress in the Tang Dynasty:the early Tang Dynasty in which Hu dress was extremely popular and the middle and late Tang Dynasty in which Hu dress and Han dress existed side by sidebut Hu dress gradually replaced Han dress.The evolution of dress which reflected change of aesthetic appreciation of people in the Tang Dynasty implied innovaton of viewpoints on Han and minority nationalities which greatly influenced the later Dynasties.