西服翻领结构的优化设计

The optimal design of the structure of suit lapel

为解决传统西服翻领结构不合理的弊端,以男西服的翻领结构为研究对象,提出将传统的一片式翻领结构分体优化设计,形成领面和领座两部分结构.对分割部位的形态做不同取值的调整,并选用同种面料、同一人台和相同的制作工艺进行实验研究.通过实验,对前颈部、后颈中、侧颈等部位翻领部分的着装效果进行对比分析,研究不同省量处理值所产生的翻领样板与标准人台的颈部贴合度数据,从中得到最佳处理值.以后颈点为坐标原点,处理值为X轴的数值,翻折线距离后颈中线的值为Y轴的数值,得出不同省量处理值样板间成型的贴合度变化呈非线性关系.

To solve the unreasonable drawbacks of traditional suit lapel structure,in this paper,the male suit lapel structure was the research object,fission optimization design of traditional one chip lapel structure,formed two parts structure as the top collar and collar stand.By adjusting different values of the segmentation parts,the same fabrics,the same dress form and the same process are studied.Through the experiment,compared and analysed the wearing effect of the different parts the joint degree data of the lapel pattern and the neck of the standard dress form generated by processing value of different dart size is analyzed,and the best value is obtained.Taking the back neck points to be as coordinates origin point,processing value to be as the numerical value of X axis,and the distance that between fold line and center back line to be as the numerical value of Y axis,it is concluded that the joint degree change of the pattern shapes by processing value of different dart size is a nonlinear relationship.