“叫化鸡”与“女易牙”:民国武侠小说中食物描写的社会结构功能

“Beggars' Chicken”and“Female Yi Ya”: The Social Structure Function of Food Description in Chinese Kung Fu Novels during the Republic of China

"叫化鸡"是丐侠和丐帮的一个身份标识,吃鸡也是江湖人角色身份的写照,彰显了豪爽义气及其江湖人际关系特点。"女易牙"则是指拥有高超烹饪技术的年轻女性,其貌虽丑但有才智,能像古代名厨那样获得当权者的信任与重用,某种程度上强化了集团的凝聚力。然而,"女易牙"有另一番现代意味。传统"政治化"的优秀厨师,性别转化且变得江湖化,是将"女性"作为一种实惠的生态资源来享用,很大程度上与性、饮食及其烹调方式的"情绪记忆"有关。这昭示"吃鸡"、"贪吃"的"类化"特点,也暗示"敬老"文化习俗对老者的宽容、"美食"与"高超武功"对等价值交换的合理性。享受美食,也成为武侠人物社会身份的结构过程。

'Beggars' chicken'is an identity marker of beggars and beggars' union in Kung Fu novels,for chicken eating reflects the role of Kung Fu characters and demonstrates their generosity and credibility. Yi Ya won the trust of Prince Huan of Qi by being good at cooking,and'Female Yi Ya'usually refers to an ugly but smart girl with super cooking skills and trusted by the authority. 'Female Yi Ya'in Kung Fu novels is also associated with sex,food and cooking. The paper explores the relations between Chinese food culture and Kung Fu novels and holds that enjoying delicious food indicates the structure process of social identity of Kung Fu characters.