浅水波浪数值模型SWAN的原理及应用综述

Mechanism and application of a third generation wave model SWAN for shallow water

概述了模拟海岸、河口的浅水波浪数值模型研究现状、存在的问题以及用能量平衡方程预报海浪的发展历史。介绍了基于当代最新波浪理论研究成果的第三代浅水波浪数值模型SWAN模型,对模型的适用性、数值特性、功能及局限性进行了阐述。介绍动谱平衡方程数学模型、方程离散要求、边界条件的处理和源项(包括能量输入、损耗及波与波之间非线性相互作用)的处理方法,重点介绍三相波非线性相互作用。模拟海安湾有效波高、波周期场,并分析波与波之间非线性相互作用对波浪要素预报的影响,最后对SWAN模型的应用前景和研究趋势进行了展望。

Research status and existing problems of wave numerical models for shallow water at the coastal and estuarine zone are generalized, the developing history of forecasting waves with energy balance equation is also discussed. The third generation wave model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN), based on the most advanced wave study achievements, is described in great detil here.In additiion, the applicability, numerical characteristic, functionality and limitation of the model are interpreted. The action balance equation, its discrete demand, the method dealing boundary condition, and source terms (the wind input, the energy dissipation and nonlinear wave-wave interactions) are detailed discussed, and special emphasis is put on the triad wave-wave interactions. The SWAN model is applied to simulate the significant wave height and average period at the Haian bay, and the influence of nonlinear wave-wave interaction term on the simulation results is analyzed. Finally, the application foreground and study tendency of the model is discussed, too.