三维极限波的产生方法及特性

The generation method of three-dimensional focusing wave and its properties

极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议.

Extreme breaking waves are one of the key factors causing the damage of ocean engineering structures. So it is very meaningful to develop the theory for generating the extreme waves and to investigate the extreme wave characteristics. The method for generating three-dimensional focusing waves is proposed using the principal that waves propagate faster for longer waves and slower for shorter waves. Wave packet transformation is simulated by linear calculation and a numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations and the finite element method to verify the proposed method. The calculated results show that the proposed method can generate expected focusing waves. The effects of the associated wave parameters such as the center frequency, frequency width and the type of frequency spectrum on the focusing waves are also discussed.