变深区浅水波的绕、折射计算

Calculation on Diffraction and Rafraction of Shallow Water Waves in Varied Depth Region

本文首先开发了基于射线理论的浅水波计算程序，提出了解决射线相交的方法。应用非线性长波方程，以波浪对圆柱体（岛）和海凹的绕、折射以及对坡岸的斜向入射为例进行了计算，其中在变深开边界处利用射线理论结果为给定入射波，获得了与实际观测相吻合的结果。

In this paper, a program of shallow water wave based on the ray theory have been developed. The treament method for rays intersect are proposed. Based on the nonlinear long wave equation, the cylinder (island) diffraction, refraction for the sea concave and inclined bottom are calculated as examples. The incident wave on the open boundary situated in varied depth region are given by the ray theory. The computation indicate that the calculation results of the rariation in wave direction. amplitude and profile shape are consistent with emprerical ones.