长重力波运动与近岸过程研究综述

Overview of the Progresses on Infragravity Waves Motions and Nearshore Processes Studies

简要介绍了长重力波的概念和作用,概述了近岸长重力波的运动形式、类型、分布和波能变化,分析了近岸长重力波与泥沙运动、海岸侵蚀、近岸环流系统、海滩碎波带地貌形态和潮汐等的关系,提出了进一步研究的几点建议。

The concept of infragravity waves and their roles in the nearshore processes were briefly introduced, then the infragravity waves motion forms, patterns, distributions and energies were analyzed, and the connections among the infragravity waves and sediment movement, coastal erosion, nearshore circulation system, beach-surf morphology patterns and tide actions were summarized. Finally, some suggestions were advanced.