宋代商业民俗论纲——以城市餐饮业为中心的透视

Commercial Folk Custom in Song Dynasty-From the perspective of urban eating and drinking services

宋代的商业民俗丰富多彩 ,各个行业都有着自己独特的经营方式和习俗。以城市餐饮业为例 ,店铺多以姓氏冠名 ,且多数商店都将经营内容写入“店标”。京城中规模较大的酒楼 ,一般要用新奇的建筑和装潢设计、特殊的灯光效果以及浓妆妓女吸引“高贵”的顾客 ,数量众多的各类中小型餐馆遍布大街小巷 ,经营南北各地风味的饮食 ,满足普通城市居民的日常需要。在这些消费场所 ,除了顾客 ,还有“闲汉”、“厮波”、妓女、小贩各色人等往来穿梭 ,他们或乞食 ,或替客人斟酒 ,或为客人烧香祈福 ,或卖唱 ,或兜售商品 ,成为这些场所中不可缺少的一部分。茶肆则一般都供奉茶圣陆羽神像 ,许多还张挂名人字画 ,摆上奇花异木 ,但消费层次和功能则是五花八门 ,有的单纯卖茶 ,有的兼卖酒食 ,三教九流各阶层人士往来其间 ,或下棋、听书 ,或饮茶、聊天 ,或学习乐器 ,各得其所。所有这些 ,相沿不辍 。

The commercial folk custom in Song Dynasty is rich and colourful, and each trade has its unique way of management and consuetude. Take the business of eating and drinking service as an example. The shops are generally named after the owners' family names and most of them would note the service items on signboards as their ”shop symbols”. The restaurants of larger scales in the capital normally have patent constructions and upholstery, peculiar lighting effects as well as heavily made-up prostitutes, to attract ”noble” guests. Multitudinous restaurants of medium and small sizes can be found everywhere. The food and drinks of all styles could satisfy the daily requirements of the urban denizens. In these locations are, besides customers, ”idles”, ”man servants”, prostitutes, peddlers of all kinds. They beg, or serve drinks, or pray for guests, or sing or hawk, each of these constituting an indispensable part of the whole. Teahouses generally have the Joss of Tea Sacred LU Yu, and in many of them there are also hung known people's calligraphies and Chinese paintings, and put on wonderful flowers and plants. The levels of consumption in these places vary greatly, some of which are elegant, some simple, some enchanting, some lively; some sell tea only, some also serve drinks and food; all sorts of people could be met here - they either play chess, or listen to storytelling, or drink tea, or chat, or learn playing music instrument, each in his proper place. These make up endlessly a folk-custom scene of a city in Song Dynasty.