斜向流作用下波浪的变形及破碎

Wave Transformation and Breaking in Diagonal Opposing Current

当波浪自无流区斜向进入有流区后，不仅波要素发生变化，波浪传播方向也发生变化，即产生折射．作者曾根据线性波浪理论计算了波浪折射后的波要素变化情况。作者也曾通过实验分析和理论计算对正向流作用下波浪的变形及破碎问题进行过详细的研究．为了进一步研究波浪折射对变形及破碎的影响，本文计算和分析了外向流作用下缓坡上规则波浪和不规则波浪的变形及破碎过程，取得了以下两方面的成果：１）正向流作用下波浪的破碎指标及研究方法可以应用于斜向流情况；２）波浪的折射在一般情况下使波高降低，从而使破碎点向浅水方向推移。

When waves propagate into diagonal opposing current from non-current area, not only the wave parameters will change, but also the direction of wave propagation will change, that is the wave refraction. Authors have calculated the transformation of wave parameters including wave refraction by Linear Wave Theory. Authors also did systematic study on wave transformation and breaking in opposing current by experimental analysis and theoretical calculation. In order to know the effect of wave refration, computation is done in this paper about the wave transformation and breaking on gentle slope in diagonal opposing current,and the following conclusions can be drawn:(1) The waves breaker indicers and the analysis method in opposing current are also available for waves propagating in diagonal opposing current.(2) Generally, wave heights will decrease due to refraction, which makes the wave breaking points move toward the shoreline.