兔羊毛机织物起球特点与影响因素探讨

A STUDY OF PILLING CHARACTERS AND ITS AFFECTING FACTORS OF RABBIT HAIR-WOOL WOVEN FABRIC

起球是影响织物服用性能的主要因素之一。本文采用YG502型园轨迹织物起毛起球仪,对50/50兔羊毛机织物进行磨球,并通过投影显微镜观察磨球次数与球体结构形态、球体密度和数量的关系,同时,就起球的影响因素,包括茸毛高度、定型程度、以及化学树脂整理剂及柔软剂进行研究。显微镜观察发现,50/50兔羊毛机织物球体中2/3以上纤维是兔毛纤维,而球芯则以较粗的羊毛纤维为多。为综合考虑球体大小、数量和纤维纠缠密度对感官的影响,提出了起球程度评价指标——等价面积值,其较传统五级分类法更为客观,准确。 对织物起球过程的研究表明,由茸毛转为球体的临界磨球次数为10～20次;磨球20～200次是球体大量形成时期;之后球体形成减少;磨球1000次以后落球开始。此规律可由起球曲线反映。试样经优化处理后,其起球曲线变化趋势基本不变,但绝对值与相对变化率均较原样对应值为小。 本研究显示定形与起球关系不明显;降低绒毛高度、添加一定浓度的树脂对减少起球效果明显,柔软剂的添加则可增加起球机会。此实验结果对生产上正确应用剪毛工艺、树脂和柔软剂添加与保持优良织物外观和手感的关系处理具有重要的指导意义。

Pilling is one of major factors affecting wearability. In the paper, we observed the relationship between abrasion cycles and pill's size, quantity and fibre entanglement density on the 50 / 50 rabbit hair-wool woven fabric with YG502 pilling tester and projection microscope, meanwhile we also studied pilling affecting factors including the height of fuzz, heat-setting, resin finishing agent and softening agent. With microscope , it was found that more than two-thirds fibres in pill were rabbit hair, but core fibres of pill usually were the coarser wool fibres. For considering the total sensation affected by all the pill's size, quantity and fibre entanglement density, we advocated to use a new pilling evaluating index -equivalent area (EA), which was more objective and accurate than former 5 grade classification.The study of pilling process indicated that the critical abrasion cycles for the fabric from fuzz to initial pill formation were 10-20; abrading 20-200 cycles was the stage of pill formating in large quantities; then the rate of pilling decreased; when abrading 1000 cycles, pills began to break off. The rule was described by pilling curve. After the samples were treated with optimum method, the relative variation tendancy of pilling curve almost did not chang, but the absolute value of EA became much smaller.The study of pilling affecting factors indicated that the effect of heat-setting on pilling was not significant, but shearing properly or adding resin finishing agent with a certain concentration would reduce pilling obviously while adding softening agent might increase the chance of pilling. This result is very important to guide manufacturer to treat relationship between shearing, adding resin finishing agent and softening agent and keeping good appearance and handle of the fabrics correctly.