量身定做纸样处理规则探讨

A research on the pattern manipulation rules for garment measuring and tailoring

量身定做(MTM)纸样处理系统是针对人们对服装合体性的要求而设计开发的应用系统。其处理规则的设计有两种思路:一是按照纸样放缩原理进行特殊体型纸样处理,二是通过参数化纸样进行自动制板。文中以针织女套装为例,分别用高胸体特殊体型上衣和凸肚体特殊体型裙装的实例对这两种方法加以分析说明。

The software of pattern manipulation system for garment measuring and tailoring (MTM) is designed and developed to meet the requirements on the body-conforming fit. There are two manipulating methods: one is the imperfect figure block pattern design according to pattern grading principle, and the other is the automatic pattern-making by inputting the related parameters. Taking the knitted lady′s suit as an example, this paper analyzed these two methods. The coat for prominent bust and the dress for protruding abdomen were chosen as the imperfect figures in this paper.