“河漏”探源

PROBE INTO THE ORIGIN OF HELE

“河漏”（）是中国北方最常见的食品之一，自元以降，屡有记载，至少有九种汉字写法。究竟是谁首先发明了这种“机械化”的快餐食品？文章依据贾思勰写于公元５３３至５４４年间的《齐民要术》的记载，从考证的制法及原料入手，结合北方民族的历史及游牧民族的习俗，论证了“”一词出源于中国北方的少数民族，并在蒙古语及达斡尔语中找到了发音与之一致的对应词汇，从而证明了是中国古代北方少数民族在食品工艺方面的一项重大发明。讨论了民间制作时，使用“烧石水”作添加剂的化学原理。

Hele is a most common food in north China,Since the Yuan Dynasty,therehave been many accounts of this food and at least nine Chinese characters for it were recorded. Who was the actual inventor of this mechanized made fast gsdt food? According to thereport in Qi Min Yao Shu (Important arts for Peoplee's Welfare),this paper starts with aninvestigation into the preparation and materials of Hele in the light of the history of northernnationalities and the custom of nomads, and demonstrates that the word Hele comes fromminority nationaliies in northc China and finds the pronunciation of its corresponding wordin modern Mongolian and Daur languages. Hele is shown to be an important invention of theminority nationalities of north China on food technology. The chemical principle of folkpreparation for Hele by using'baking stone water' as an additive is also discussed in the paper.