期刊文献+

长重力波形成机制研究进展 被引量:2

Progress in the Studies of Infragravity Generation Mechanisms
下载PDF
导出
摘要 简要介绍了长重力波的概念和它在近岸过程的重要性,概述和评析了长重力波形成的Munk与Tucker模式,BLW,Unoki和非线性作用模式,BFLW模式以及BLW和BFLW联合作用等6种模式,展望了长重力波综合研究的内容和必要性。 The concept of infragravity waves and its significance were briefly introduced firstly, then the six generation mechanisms of infragravity waves such as Munk and Tucker, BLW, Unoki, nonlinear function, BFLW, and the united functions of BLW and BFLW, were summarized and appraised. Finally, the contents of and necessities for the integrated research of infragravity waves were looked forward to.
出处 《海洋通报》 CAS CSCD 北大核心 2005年第5期85-90,共6页 Marine Science Bulletin
基金 国家自然科学基金项目(40276030)
关键词 长重力波 形成机制 受约束长波 破波点驱动长波 infragravity waves generation mechanisms bounded long waves breakpoint forced long waves
  • 相关文献

参考文献31

  • 1Homan R A. Infragravity Energy in the Surf Zone [J]. J. Geophys. Res., 1981, 86(C7): 6 442-6 450.
  • 2Herbers T H C, Elgar S, Guza R T. Generation and propagation of infragravity waves [J]. J. Geophys. Res., 1995, 100(C12): 24 863-24 872.
  • 3Gerhard Masselink. Group Bound Long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone [J].Continental Shelf Research, 1995, 15:1 525-1 547.
  • 4Wright L D, Guza R T and Short A D.Dynamics of a high energy dissipative surf zone [J]. Mar. Geology., 1982, 45: 41-62.
  • 5Holman R A, Bowen A J. Longshore structure of instructre of infragravity wave motions [J]. J. Geophys. Res.,1984, 89:6 446-6 452.
  • 6Kirby J T, Dalrymple R A, Liu P L F. Mechanisms for beach erosion during storms [J]. Continental Shelf Research, 1981, Research 13:1 243 - 1 265.
  • 7Holman R A. Edge Waves and the Configuration of the Shoreline, Chapter 2 [M]. The CRC Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion, CRC Press, Boca Raton, 1983, FL, 21-23
  • 8Smith G G, Mocke G P. Interaction between breaking/broken waves and infragravity-scale phenomena to control sediment suspension transport in the surf zone [J]. Marine Geology, 2002, 187: 329-345.
  • 9Aagaard T, Greenwood B. Suspended sediment transport and the role of infragravity waves in a barred surf zone [J]. Marine Geology, 1994, 118:23 - 48.
  • 10Ortega Sanchez M, Losada M A, Baquerizo A. On the development of large-scale cuspate features on a semireflective beach: Carchuna beach, Southern Spain [J]. Marine Geology, 2003, 198: 209-223.

二级参考文献89

  • 1左其华 丁炳灿.长江口一期工程后导堤附近波浪引起的水流.南京水利科学研究院报告[R].,1999..
  • 2Holmedal L, Myrhaug D, Rue H. Seabed shear strsses under irreguilar waves plus current from Monta Carlo simulations of parameterized models[J]. Coastal Engineering, 2000,39:123 - 147.
  • 3Zou Z L. Hight order Boussinesq equations[J]. Ocean Engineering, 1997, 26, 767 - 792.
  • 4Unoki S, Isozaki I. A possibility of generation of surf beats[A]. Proc 10th of ICCE[C]. 1966,1 : 207 - 216.
  • 5Mei C C. The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves[M]. John Wiley and Sons, New York. 1983.
  • 6Liu L- F, Dingemans N W. Derivation of the 3'd order evolution equation for weakly nonlinear water waves propagation over uneven bottom[J]. Wave Motion, 1989, 11 : 41 - 64.
  • 7Rakha K A, Kauphuis J W. Wave induced currents in the vicinity of seawall[J]. Coastal Engng. 1997: 30, 23 - 52.
  • 8Loveless J, Debski D. Wave transmission and setup at detached breakwaters[A]. Coastal Dynamics'97[C]. 1997.
  • 9Pechon P, et al. Intercomparison of wave - driven current models[J]. Coastal Engineering, 1997, 31: 199- 215.
  • 10Losada I J, Dalrymple R A. Wave induced mean flows in vertical rubble mound Structure[J]. Coastal Engng. 1998, 35:251 - 281.

共引文献12

同被引文献31

引证文献2

二级引证文献5

相关作者

内容加载中请稍等...

相关机构

内容加载中请稍等...

相关主题

内容加载中请稍等...

浏览历史

内容加载中请稍等...
;
使用帮助 返回顶部