民众记忆与服装衍化——1949～2000年中国城镇民众服装流变

Popular Memory and the Evolution of Clothing: Changes in Chinese Urban Clothing from 1949 to 2000

服装是社会变迁的组成部分。中国城镇服装以社会大文化的发展为依托,伴随生活方式、价值观念以及行为规范的变化而变化。改革开放以来,随着国家政治经济文化的健康发展,服装开始脱离社会政治和革命范式,凸现自身发展固有的逻辑。同时,中国人的审美观念不断更新,在整体上趋于西化,服装的自身功能日趋彰显。但回首过去,中国特有的、在短时间内形成民众服装急剧变革、走向革命化的现象,颇耐人寻味。在人类历史上,恐怕还没有一个民族将服装当作革命的对象、形式和重要内容,这一现象与中华民族的历史、文化、精神密切相连,是值得深入研究和长久反思的。

Clothing constitutes an important part of social changes. Against the backdrop of macroscopic socio-cultural development the Chinese urban clothing evolves with the changes in the life style, values and behavioral pattern. After the initiation of reform and opening-up, amidst the healthy political, economic and cultural development in China the clothing of the Chinese people began to break away from the social, political and revolutionary paradigms and display its own inherent logic of development. At the same time, the Chinese people have continually renewed their aesthetic conceptions, which are, as a whole, tending towards Westernization, and the clothing's own functions are increasingly evident. In retrospect, the radical change and revolutionization of people's clothing in a very short period of time in the past, a phenominon unique in China, is thought-provoking. Perhaps there is no other nation in the history of mankind that ever treated clothing as the object, form and important content of revolution. This phenomenon was closely linked with the history, culture and spirit of the Chinese nation, worth in-depth study and ever lasting reflections.