苎麻棉针织物染整工艺探讨

A research on the dyeing technology of ramie and cotton blended yarn knitted fabrics

从前处理、染色、柔软和烘干工艺方面分析了影响苎麻棉针织物风格的因素。试验结果表明:苎麻棉针织物的煮练以温度110℃,氢氧化钠浓度在4g/L为宜。该产品除进行纤维素酶处理外,还采用特殊变性硅酮油进行柔软整理,经单层平幅预缩松式烘干机或转笼烘干机进行烘干后,使苎麻棉针织物具有手感滑爽、丰满、回弹性佳、黄变性小,及具亲水性和耐洗性的特点。选用德司达公司生产的RGB活性染料可改善织物的透染性、色泽的鲜艳性、均一性。另外,文中以18tex苎麻棉(55/45)双面针织物为例,介绍了大生产的加工过程。指出了染整加工过程中的生产要点,测试了产品的牢度和物理性能。

This paper analyzes the factors influencing the style of ramie and cotton blended yarn knitted fabrics in terms of pretreatment, dyeing, softening and drying. The experimental results show that as far as the ramie/cotton blended yarn knitted fabric is concerned, the scouring temperature should be 110 ℃, and the concentration of sodium hydroxide should be 4 g/L. In addition to the cellulase treatment, the softening finish is made using specially modified slicone, and then the fabric is dried using single layer open-width pre-shrinking dryer or tumble dryer. Through these processes, the ramie and cotton blended yarn knitted fabric bears smooth hand, full feel, good rebound elasticity, small yellowing, good hydrophilicity and good washing resistance. In experiment, the RGB reactive dye made by De Si Da Coporation was chosen. In addition, this paper introduces the large scale production of this kind of fabric taking the double knitted fabric using 18 tex of ramie and cotton blended yarn(55/45)as an example, points out the important issues in dyeing processing, and tests the physical properties of fastness.