服装纸样设计的差异匹配原理与应用

Principle and application of difference matching in apparel pattern design

服装是由许多裁片经逐次相关缝合而成,从成品形态看,似乎缝合两侧的缝边与形状是等长、等形的,其实不然。一方面由于服装最终造型效果要求是立体的,且要求与穿着对象体表曲面相吻合;另一方面由于服装材料存在的厚度等原因,为使服装造型达到特定效果,须对衣片缝合部位的缝边进行差异匹配设计。缝边的差异量即为吃势量或归拔量,匹配差异量与材料厚度、成衣形态及缝制工艺有关。纸样差异匹配设计分为层叠型差异匹配和转折型差异匹配。

A garment is made up of many pieces of fabric sewn up one after another in an orderly way. From the configuration of finished garment, it seams that the two sides of a seam are of the same length and same shape, in fact, not always in that situation. On one hand, stereoscopic feeling and fitness to the wearer are essential requirements to a garment. On the other hand, fabric thickness is an important factor which should be taken into consideration when making a garment. In order to sculpt a garment as anticipated, difference match designs on seams, such as flat felled or overlapped, are necessary. The bound edge or the blocking, and the difference for pattern matching are related with the thickness of material, the configuration of ready-wear and sewing craftsmanship. The difference matching design in apparel pattern can be divided into layer-overlapping type and turning-point type