影响服装驳面样板成型因素的研究

Study on forming factors of apparel lapel collar pattern

以西装平驳领为研究对象,通过拟合西装大身与驳面实验,对影响西装驳面样板成型的诸多因素———驳面翻折角度、驳头宽窄、面料厚度等进行了相应的研究,并就驳头翻折后驳面、驳里曲线之间对应点纵横两个方向的差异进行了数学分析,找出驳头翻折角和使用面料厚度形成的曲线差异量之间的关系。结果表明,驳头翻折后由于内外径的不同,驳面和驳里产生差异量,并且在翻折角一定的情况下面料厚度越厚,驳头面、里曲线间的差异量也越大,它们之间存在一个数量关系式。

This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar with focuses on the factors affecting it, i.e., the roll angle, the width of lapel, and thickness of the fabric. Mathematic study was done on the differences between the inside lapel collar and the outside lapel collar of the turndown lapel collar to find out the relationship between roll angle and the thickness of fabric. The study showed that the thicker the fabric, the larger the difference of the curves between the outside and inside lapel collars. A quantitative relationship exists between them.