织物起球与纤维力学性能的关系

The Relationship between Fibre's Tensile Properties and Fabric's Pilling

在影响织物起球性能的各种纤维性能中，除纤维的几何形态（线密度、截面形状、长度等）之外，经过测试研究分析筛选出来的主要影响因素是纤维的重复弯曲疲劳强度、重复扭转疲劳强度、拉伸断裂相对强度、拉伸断裂伸长率和拉伸初始模量．后者与织物的手感也有很密切的关系．本文研制了学纤维重复弯曲疲劳测试仪、单纤维重复扭转疲劳测试仪，优选了它们的测试条件参数，先后测试了绵羊毛，山羊绒、马海毛等纤维和２０余种化学纤维的性能，并经过优选工艺，对由１３种纤维纯纺或混纺生产的７种毛型梭织物进行了起球规律的测试、试穿和研究，发现在研究中织物的穿着起球效果与客观测试中随摩擦次数球粒数变化的曲线下积分值相关最密切．最后对纤维五种力学性能与织物起球曲线下积分值进行了主成分析和多元回归分析，获得了由纤维力学性能评价织物起球性能的预测方程式．

here are many properties of the fibte affecting the pilling of the fabric, except for the fibre' s geometric shape (line density, cross section shape and length ect. ). Aftor testing and analysis, the authors found other main factors affecting the fabric' s pilling, which are the fibrc' sproperty of repeated bending fatigue, the repeated torsional fatigae, the relative breaking tensile value, the tensile elogation when breaking, the tensile modulus in the beginning. The latter has close relation with the fabric handle property. The fibre repeated bending fatigue tester and the fibre repeated torsional fatigue tester are designed and produced by the authors, the best testing parameters are selected after lots of experiments. Wool, cashmere, mohair and more than 20 kinds of sythetic fibres are tested by the tester. The fabric's pilling of 7 kinds of wool type fabrics are tested by tester and by dressing, the 7 fabries are made up of one or more than one kind of 13 kinds of fibre by the best spinning method. The studied results point out that the fabrie's pilling degree in dressing has close relation with the integral value under the curve of pilling-times of abrasion got from the pilling tester. Main composition and multiple regression analysis are carried out for the relation between the five tensile properties of the fibre and the integral value of pilling curve. The equation predicting the fabric' s pilling by the fibre's tensile properties has been set up in this peper.