服装上褶的成形机理及其受力分析

Formation principle of pleat in clothing and analysis of its force

研究服装设计中的力学问题,重点分析和实测纵向褶、横向褶和斜纱向材料的受力变形情况．研究认为,纵向褶在重力作用下会保持较好的形态;横向褶悬垂曲线呈抛物线状,有负面影响;对于自然悬垂的斜纱向材料,在宽度不变而长度(即重量)呈等差数列变化时,宽度回缩率和长度增加率也呈等差数列变化．

The mechanics problem in dress designing is studied. The deforming situation of vertical pleat, horizontal pleat and oblique yarn is analysed and measured. It is suggested that the vertical pleat will keep better shape under the action of gravity; the horizontal pleat hangs the contours of hanging down and takes the form of parabola, there are negative effects; As to hang oblique yarn that hang down to material, the width retraction rate and length increment rate change with arithmetic series of numbers when the width being changeless but the length being change with arithmetic series of numbers.